Woven Structures

A typical pique structure consists of a plain face fabric composed of one series of warp and one series of weft threads, and a series of back or stitching warp threads. The stitching ends are placed on a separate beam which is very heavily weighted. At intervals, the tight stitching ends are interwoven into the plain face texture. This results in pulling down of the face texture and formation of an indentation of the surface.

The backed fabrics employ a face and back weave alternatively on the two sides of the cloth. These weaves may be of a reversible or non-reversible nature. These types of fabrics are mainly constructed for two purposes:-
i) Increasing the warmth retaining qualities of the cloth
ii) Secure a greater weight and substance that can be acquired in a single structure which is equally fine on the surface.

Terry belongs to a certain class of warp pile structure in which certain warp ends are made to form loops on the surface of the cloth. Terry structures are constructed by using one series of weft threads and two series of warp threads; one for the ground and the other for the pile. The ground warp interlaces with the ground weft to form the ground cloth from which the loops formed by the pile ends project.

Imitation inlay creates one pattern on one side and a different pattern with different colours on the opposite side. Although all weft colours are being used on both sides but when one colour is used on face side then that colour cannot be used in opposite side. When wefts on one side pass over a greater number of warps than the opposite side and are packed so tightly that the undesirable colors are hidden even though it is used.

Extra warp- In certain classes of fabrics the ornamentation or figuring is done by using extra threads which are made to interlace with the ground fabric at intervals. The extra threads may be introduced in the warp or weft way direction or both. The notable feature of these fabrics is that the withdrawal of the extra threads from the cloth leaves a complete ground structure under the figure. The introduction of the extra threads does not affect the strength or durability of the cloth.

Special warp and weft is a weave used for the ornamentation and figuring of fabrics. It differs from extra warp or extra weft in the following ways-
a)Equal mpotance to both warp and weft
b) Equal insertion of warp and weft threads in the structure
c)Binding at equal intervals results in minimal floats unlike the extra warp or weft where the pattern is by means of float.

In certain classes of fabrics the ornamentation or figuring is done by using extra threads which are made to interlace with the ground fabric at intervals. The extra threads may be introduced in the warp or weft way direction or both. The notable feature of these fabrics is that the withdrawal of the extra threads from the cloth leaves a complete ground structure under the figure. The introduction of the extra threads does not affect the strength or durability of the cloth.Pattern in extra warp is by means of float.

Leno , also called Gauze, is the name given to a fabric characterized by its openwork effect.An open weave created by arranging warp yarns in pairs, and twisting them alternately in a right or left hand direction before inserting the filling yarn. Also called a doup weave - it naturally adds strength to open weaves and prevents yarns from shifting out of position.

Double cloths are fabrics in which there are at least two series of warp and weft threads, face and back, each of which is engaged primarily in producing its own layer of cloth, thus forming a separate face cloth and a separate back cloth. They consist of two layers of threads that are woven one above the other and stitched together. They are also known as two ply fabrics. The upper layer is formed by interlacing the face warp threads with the face weft threads, and lower layer by interlacing the back warp threads with the back weft threads.